In the aftermath of World War II, a nation draped in the shadows of devastation craved a flicker of hope. Enter Christian Dior, a revolutionary couturier poised to ignite a sartorial revolution with his now-legendary "The New Look." But the path to this iconic collection, chronicled in Apple TV+'s gripping new series, is paved with the moral complexities of a tumultuous era.
"The New Look" transcends the realm of a period drama, delving into the murky ethical waters of occupied Paris. The series follows Dior (played by the captivating Ben Mendelsohn) and the enigmatic Coco Chanel (Juliette Binoche) as they navigate a world defined by Nazi oppression.
The show doesn't shy away from the uncomfortable realities of collaboration and resistance. Early episodes explore the characters' choices - to work with or defy the Nazis - and the consequences that ripple through their lives. Creator Todd A. Kessler masterfully avoids simplistic moral judgments, painting a nuanced portrait where survival instincts clash with ethical dilemmas.
Binoche offers a captivating portrayal of Chanel, a woman shrouded in controversy. The series delves into her alleged collaboration with the Nazis, exploring her romantic ties with a German officer and her ruthless pursuit of business interests, even at the expense of her Jewish partners. Binoche sheds light on Chanel's traumatic past, suggesting a deep-seated survival instinct that blurred moral lines in the face of war.
Kessler emphasizes the importance of humanizing these historical figures. He avoids painting Dior and Chanel as heroes or villains, instead allowing viewers to grapple with their choices through a lens of empathy and understanding. "The New Look" doesn't offer easy answers, but compels viewers to confront the complexities of navigating a war-torn world.
Despite the grim backdrop, Dior emerges as a beacon of hope. As portrayed by Mendelsohn, he embodies the resilience of the human spirit. His dedication to his art and his pursuit of freeing his sister from a concentration camp offer a testament to the transformative power of creativity. The show compellingly positions the "New Look" not just as a fashion statement, but as an act of psychological defiance and a symbol of post-war optimism.
"The New Look" boasts meticulous attention to detail. Dior provided access to its archives, allowing costume designer Karen Muller Serreau to meticulously recreate iconic Dior pieces. Serreau's dedication extends to using period-appropriate undergarments, ensuring the costumes capture the essence of Dior's revolutionary silhouettes.
The show's focus on real-life fashion houses reflects a growing trend in entertainment. Executive producer Lorenzo di Bonaventura acknowledges the heightened brand awareness among younger generations, highlighting a shift in consumer interest.
"The New Look" is more than just a captivating drama. It ignites conversations about the ethics of collaboration during wartime, the power of resilience in the face of adversity, and the enduring influence of fashion in shaping history. By weaving together personal stories with historical context, the series compels viewers to confront the complexities of the past and find meaning in the threads that bind fashion, history, and human nature.
