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| "The New Look" Unravels Dior, Chanel, and Occupied Paris |
"The New Look" plunges into the complexities of World War II-era Paris, weaving a captivating tapestry of fashion, resistance, and moral ambiguity. This 10-part saga, guided by creator Todd A. Kessler, transcends a mere historical reenactment, offering a nuanced exploration of fashion's resilience in the face of unimaginable darkness.
The series eschews a simplistic portrayal of wartime France. True events become a canvas for exploring the grey areas of human behavior under Nazi occupation. Did Coco Chanel, the revolutionary couturier, collaborate with the enemy? Was Christian Dior, yearning to design beauty, complicit in appeasing Nazi wives? These thorny questions linger, refusing easy answers.
Juliette Binoche's Chanel emerges as a complex figure, driven by ambition and questionable choices. Ben Mendelsohn portrays Dior as a man burdened by guilt, torn between artistic aspirations and the fight for survival. Their paths rarely intersect, yet each is keenly aware of the other's presence, fueling the narrative tension.
Chanel's exile in Switzerland and eventual return raise eyebrows, especially her alleged use of Aryan laws to reclaim her company. Her entanglement with a Nazi operative further muddies the waters. Meanwhile, Dior navigates the moral minefield of designing for Nazi elites while harboring resistance members and desperately searching for his imprisoned sister.
John Malkovich shines as the eccentric Lucien Lelong, choosing pragmatism to keep his employees working under Nazi rule. The narrative doesn't shy away from the human cost of survival, showcasing the heartbreaking plight of Dior's sister Catherine, captured and tortured by the Gestapo.
The series employs a deliberate stylistic choice, jarringly transitioning between Chanel's egocentric maneuvering and Catherine's harrowing suffering. This stark contrast forces viewers to confront the stark realities of war alongside the seemingly frivolous world of fashion.
Binoche masterfully navigates the contradictions of Chanel, making her morally reprehensible yet captivating. Mendelsohn brings depth and pathos to Dior, showcasing his artistic yearning amidst the war's devastation. Supporting actors like Emily Mortimer and Claes Bang deliver equally noteworthy performances.
Despite the bleak backdrop, "The New Look" ultimately celebrates the defiant power of creation. Dior's dream of designing "the most beautiful women's clothes" becomes a symbol of hope, a testament to the human spirit's capacity for beauty even in the darkest of times.
