Remember the Amazon Coat? 2018 saw its reign, fueled by word-of-mouth and an irresistible price tag. Now, a new outerwear king sits upon the throne – the Toteme scarf jacket and its countless doppelgangers. But this time, the ascent to viral stardom is fueled by a more potent force: the relentless algorithms of social media.
Toteme, a Swedish brand synonymous with quiet luxury, launched its $1,130 wool coat with a built-in scarf in 2022. What began as a street-style darling has morphed into a global phenomenon, spawning countless unboxing videos, critiques, and analyses. While the Toteme original remains the coveted gold standard, selling out online and at retailers like Net-a-Porter, fast-fashion giants like Amazon and Zara offer dupes for as little as $31.99. The trend even has its own nickname: the "scoat."
The scoat's success wasn't purely accidental. It arrived at the perfect moment, riding the wave of the "quiet-luxury" boom, where neutral-toned, functional pieces from Nordic brands like Toteme reigned supreme. Its warm embrace and effortless cool fit the bill perfectly.
Initially, the Toteme scoat felt fresh with its embroidered edging and fringed scarf. But it wasn't entirely unprecedented. Fashion history reveals similar designs – Charles James' 1920s dress with a built-in scarf, Claire McCardell's 1940s raincoat with a neckerchief, and Bill Blass' scarf-adorned coats of the 70s and 80s. While trademarked designs are rare, brands can apply for "trade dress" to protect recognizable styles. Toteme claims a "trademark" on the scoat.
What truly propelled the scoat's stratospheric rise was the algorithmic alchemy of platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and Pinterest. Street-style photos and videos of the Toteme coat fueled a fast-fashion copycat frenzy, which in turn generated content analyzing the dupes' quality compared to the original.
"What gets replicated and promoted further gets more attention because that's the algorithm's game," explains Kyle Chayka, author of "Filterworld: How Algorithms Flattened Culture." "Popularity snowballs, with a little spark turning into a raging inferno."
And indeed, the scarf jacket went from nonexistent to ubiquitous in record time. While Toteme keeps sales figures under wraps, their substantial impact is undeniable. Additionally, the association with a viral trend offers immense marketing and publicity value, even if not everyone can afford the original.
Brittany Lorden, a finance professional, embodies the "Toteme taste on a Costco budget" sentiment. After seeing the scoat everywhere online, she bought an Amazon dupe that left her unsatisfied. Ultimately, she opted for a higher-quality wool version from Quince, a data-driven design company.
Quince's decision to create their own scarf jacket reflects the growing influence of data and trend-spotting in the mass-market. Platforms like LTK, connecting influencers with shopping links, observed a massive surge in "scarf jacket" and "Toteme jacket" searches starting in August 2023.
Signs suggest the scoat's reign may be nearing its peak. London fashion consultant Emma Hope Allwood posted a playful Instagram story urging an "end to the reign of terror," signifying a potential shift in sentiment.
Whether the scoat becomes a fashion relic or endures, its story highlights the powerful influence of social media algorithms in shaping trends and consumer behavior. It's a cautionary tale and a call to action, urging us to remain mindful consumers in a rapidly evolving fashion landscape.
