In 1965, Paris witnessed a fashion earthquake. Yves Saint Laurent's autumn-winter collection unveiled a series of slim, sleeveless dresses, their creamy-white canvas slashed by bold black lines and vibrant color blocks. These weren't mere garments; they were wearable interpretations of Piet Mondrian's radical abstractions, a symphony of geometry distilled into wool jersey. Within days, the world was humming "Mondrian and Saint Laurent," and within months, grids of primary colors dominated everything from haute couture to high street.
"Mondrian's Dress: Yves Saint Laurent, Piet Mondrian, and Pop Art" dives deep into this pivotal moment, a hidden gem waiting to be examined for over half a century. Authors Nancy Troy and Ann Marguerite Tartsinis unravel the threads of this cultural tapestry, revealing its significance far exceeding the realm of fashion. These untitled, yet instantly iconic, "Mondrian Dresses" were more than just a fleeting trend; they were sails catching a cultural trade wind.
They not only revived Saint Laurent's image, repositioning him in the face of the space-age fashion vanguard, but also sparked a wave of creative copycatting, injecting Pop Art's flat aesthetic into the mainstream. The book delves into the intricate dance between art and fashion, exploring how Saint Laurent, inspired by Michel Seuphor's book on Mondrian, translated the Dutch master's purity of form onto the female form.
More than just an artistic homage, the Mondrian dresses became a self-fulfilling prophecy. Pierre Bergé, Saint Laurent's brilliant partner, recognized the cultural zeitgeist and used it to elevate Saint Laurent, campaigning for his inclusion in museums. The "rhetoric of fine art" surrounding the dresses resonated, and soon, critics, newspapers, and the world embraced Saint Laurent's couture as art, cementing his legacy as a visionary creator.
But the story doesn't end there. Chapter two dives into the technical brilliance of the dresses themselves. Unlike the flowing, form-flattering bias-cut garments typical of couture, these were masterpieces of geometric construction. Meticulous piecing and padding camouflaged curves, creating a flat canvas on the body, reminiscent of a teenager's slender frame. They were photographed head-on, mirroring the frontality of paintings, blurring the lines between art and attire.
This innovative approach bridged the gap between generations, appealing to both mature women and the emerging youth culture. It paved the way for Saint Laurent's revolutionary prêt-à -porter line, Rive Gauche, laying the foundation for the immense financial success that allowed him and Bergé to build their own artistic empires.
The book delves into the details of the "canonical six" dresses, analyzing their variations and historical significance. While the iconic asymmetrical dress with all three primary colors stands as a symbol of the collection, it was surprisingly the least commercially successful. Conversely, a simpler, symmetrical version, adorned with a single quadrant of color, resonated more with buyers. This dress transcended its Mondrian inspiration, its bold black lines hinting at a cross-like motif, reflecting fashion's eternal quest for meaning.
"Mondrian's Dress" is more than a fashion monograph; it's a captivating exploration of a cultural crossroads. It's a story of artistic inspiration, audacious reinvention, and the transformative power of collaboration. By weaving together fashion, art, and cultural history, Troy and Tartsinis offer a fresh perspective on a moment that continues to inspire and influence the world of fashion and beyond.
